A GOOD APPETITE
From Colombia, the Ultimate One-Pot Meal
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Published: October 28, 2011
LAST spring, I had an elaborate Colombian dish called ajiaco at my friend Ana’s dinner party.
Somewhere between a soup and a stew, the broth was rich and intense from long simmering with both chicken and beef, and studded with soft streaks of green from baby spinach leaves. The pot was placed in the center of the table, surrounded by platters of poached chicken and short ribs that had been cooked in the broth, along with corn on the cob and potatoes. Chopped raw onions, capers, avocado, cilantro, chile sauce, salsa and sour cream sat in small bowls placed here and there.
Platters and garnishes were passed to and fro, each person creating a unique hodgepodge in a bowl. I put in a little of everything, heavy on the briny capers, and was in heaven.
As soon as I got home, I did some research: I e-mailed a Colombian friend, and she responded. “You can’t make ajiaco,” she wrote and added, “You need three different kinds of potatoes, none of which is available here,” along with a grassy herb called guascas.
The Internet seemed to agree with her. The most important of the three kinds of potatoes is papa criolla, a buttery yellow potato that breaks down and dissolves in the broth, giving it the luxurious, creamy texture. And the guascas provides a deep herbal taste.
Nevertheless, Ana turned out an Americanized version of the dish for me, not authentic but no less tasty for that lack. Instead of papas criollas, Ana used regular russets, coarsely grated, which were simmered for so long that they eventually fell apart and added body to the broth. And instead of guascas, she stirred in a combination of dried oregano and fresh spinach.
Not wanting to wait until I had a dinner party to make the ajiaco, I reduced the quantities to small-family proportions (her recipe served 12).
Then, rather than putting out all of the garnishes, meats and vegetables separately, I threw most of them back into the pot, making it not only easier to serve the first time around, but also simpler to reheat the next day.
While the soup simmered, I chopped up a fresh salsa to stir in at the last minute to add color and freshness, and a little more pungent chile heat.
It was the ultimate one-pot meal, with each bite different from the last because of the diverse ingredients bobbing in that tasty broth. Yes, it is perfect dinner party fare, but it’s even better for a family meal — with fragrant, heady leftovers lasting for days
A version of this article appeared in print on November 2, 2011, on page D4 of the New York edition with the headline: Soup or Stew: A One-Pot Colombian Dish.
A version of this article appeared in print on November 2, 2011, on page D4 of the New York edition with the headline: Soup or Stew: A One-Pot Colombian Dish.
RECIPE
Colombian-Style Chicken, Short Rib and Potato Stew
Published: October 28, 2011
Adapted from Ana Jovancicevic
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Related
A Good Appetite: From Colombia, the Ultimate One-Pot Meal (November 2, 2011)
Time: 31/2 hours
1 whole chicken (3 1/2 pounds), rinsed and patted dry
1 pound beef short ribs, rinsed and patted dry
2 3/4 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
1 large white onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon dried oregano
2 bunches cilantro, with roots if possible
2 russet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated (about 4 cups)
1 1/4 pounds small Yukon Gold or red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 large ears of corn, husked and cut into 1-inch rounds
3 medium tomatoes, cored and chopped
3/4 cup finely chopped scallion
3/4 cup finely chopped shallots
1 habanero pepper, plus more to taste
5 cups fresh baby spinach
1/2 cup capers with brine
1 teaspoon black pepper
3 avocadoes, peeled, pitted and diced, for serving
Sour cream, for serving.
1. Season the chicken and beef all over with salt. Let stand 15 minutes. In a large pot, combine the chicken, beef, onion, dried oregano and 2 teaspoons salt. Rinse away any grit from the cilantro (do not trim), tie one bunch with kitchen twine and drop it into the pot. Pour in enough cold water to just cover the meat (about 12 cups). Simmer until the chicken is just cooked through, about 40 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large platter and let cool.
2. Stir in the grated potato. Continue to simmer until the beef is meltingly tender and the potatoes have melted into the broth, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the meat to a platter. Once cool enough to handle, shred the beef and chicken, and discard the bones, skin, fat and gristle.
3. Stir the chopped potato and corn into the pot. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the tomatoes, scallions, shallots and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Chop 1/3 cup of cilantro leaves from the remaining bunch and stir into this salsa. Wearing gloves, remove and discard the habanero seeds; finely chop the habanero and add to the salsa.
5. Return the chicken and beef to the pot. Stir in the spinach, capers and black pepper. Cook until the meat is warmed through and spinach is wilted. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Ladle into bowls, topping with salsa, avocado and a dollop of sour cream.
Yield: 8 to 10 servings.
A version of this recipe appeared in print on November 2, 2011, on page D4 of the New York edition with the headline: Colombian-Style Chicken, Short Rib and Potato Stew.
RECIPE
Colombian-Style Chicken, Short Rib and Potato Stew
Published: October 28, 2011
Adapted from Ana Jovancicevic
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Related
A Good Appetite: From Colombia, the Ultimate One-Pot Meal (November 2, 2011)
Time: 31/2 hours
1 whole chicken (3 1/2 pounds), rinsed and patted dry
1 pound beef short ribs, rinsed and patted dry
2 3/4 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
1 large white onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon dried oregano
2 bunches cilantro, with roots if possible
2 russet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated (about 4 cups)
1 1/4 pounds small Yukon Gold or red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 large ears of corn, husked and cut into 1-inch rounds
3 medium tomatoes, cored and chopped
3/4 cup finely chopped scallion
3/4 cup finely chopped shallots
1 habanero pepper, plus more to taste
5 cups fresh baby spinach
1/2 cup capers with brine
1 teaspoon black pepper
3 avocadoes, peeled, pitted and diced, for serving
Sour cream, for serving.
1. Season the chicken and beef all over with salt. Let stand 15 minutes. In a large pot, combine the chicken, beef, onion, dried oregano and 2 teaspoons salt. Rinse away any grit from the cilantro (do not trim), tie one bunch with kitchen twine and drop it into the pot. Pour in enough cold water to just cover the meat (about 12 cups). Simmer until the chicken is just cooked through, about 40 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large platter and let cool.
2. Stir in the grated potato. Continue to simmer until the beef is meltingly tender and the potatoes have melted into the broth, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the meat to a platter. Once cool enough to handle, shred the beef and chicken, and discard the bones, skin, fat and gristle.
3. Stir the chopped potato and corn into the pot. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the tomatoes, scallions, shallots and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Chop 1/3 cup of cilantro leaves from the remaining bunch and stir into this salsa. Wearing gloves, remove and discard the habanero seeds; finely chop the habanero and add to the salsa.
5. Return the chicken and beef to the pot. Stir in the spinach, capers and black pepper. Cook until the meat is warmed through and spinach is wilted. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Ladle into bowls, topping with salsa, avocado and a dollop of sour cream.
Yield: 8 to 10 servings.
A version of this recipe appeared in print on November 2, 2011, on page D4 of the New York edition with the headline: Colombian-Style Chicken, Short Rib and Potato Stew.
A version of this recipe appeared in print on November 2, 2011, on page D4 of the New York edition with the headline: Colombian-Style Chicken, Short Rib and Potato Stew.
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